December 1st 2007 - 14.4 metre swell
Duncan and I were ready to go. We knew we didn't have long to do this, as the conditions were barely holding and we reckoned that by 11 am it would be so violent out there that we would be forced back onshore.
We dropped the ski down the slip, set up and launched before it was even fully bright. Gabe and Ritchie’s camera crew were buzzing around in a panic as Duncan and I drove out the harbour mouth.
As we rounded the harbour wall, I saw a wave break completely over it. I had never seen this happen before. You can get a wee bit of white water blown over it from time to time, but this was a full on wave. It washed over the 25 foot wall like it was a kerb on the road. I remember thinking, "This is going to be massive".
I also remember thinking that size is relative, and what seems 'massive' to me might seem normal to someone in Hawaii or Mavericks... we kept heading out to sea. When you turn around the harbour wall, you begin to take the swell on the bow of the ski. This is the time that I usually begin imagining what is actually out there. My mind runs wild and I envisage the most horrific sized waves and begin to doubt my ability and question myself.
It's the same as when I surfed Mavericks the first time. The fear still comes up every time, to varying degrees. It’s just something I've learned to deal with and accept. I think if you go out there and don't expect to be scared, then you are in for a shock.
We made our way out to the peak of the wave, right out the back. It was clear to me that these were the biggest waves I had ever been in. Huge flawless peaks were stacking on the reef, drawing tonnes of water from it and then pouring out into massive, dark cavernous tubes of death!...
continued in Surfing Mennie Waves available...
Image Credits:
KAFOTO